Day X plus 1 - Ulan Bataar to Chinese Border: expore the joys of stripmining, get to see wild camels, half a dog and the wheels come off the wagon.
It's a cold and frosty morning and after we've said goodbye to the boys (Goomba and Ita) we get onto the nice warm train. The carriage is much cleaner than the last one, but the decor is older than the Russian train and very floral. We tie the curtains back and use our patented cheese cooler (use the curtain tabs to hold the bag of cheese to the colder train wall!) spread our belongings around and we're off. Some of the faces in the first class carriage are starting to look very familiar. Mark and Julie finally board (we thought they were ahead of us and it turns out they slept through 2 wakeup calls and 1 alarm clock and only just made the train). They find out they are sharing a four berth carriage with a family of 3! General mayhem ensues but but no other option, they wedge themselves in for the ride.
Our first sight out of the station and 'ger-burbs is a man pooing in a field next to the rails...niiiice! I'm more amazed by the fact he's doing this over 2 inches of snow...not that it's in front of a 15 carriage train. It's the start of a day of peculiar sights.
We're retracing some of our steps through the national park, and this gives a perspective of just how vast the land is, and how small and lonely the settlements look at we trundle through. Even though we don't stop at most of them, each one has a railway guard waving a flag to let us through. People either go about their everyday business, hauling water, sweeping or tinkering with engines of some variety, usually the kids will wave back.
There are some good curves so you can really see the train and the first stop is a dusty station with pink and blue buildings and a silver painted statue of the cosmonaut.
The day becomes a constant drift of looking at the view, talking to our new train friends, reading and trying to spot wild camels...which we do, and they are wearing their special hairy winter coats.
We plan the toilet breaks carefully as at the end of the day we'll be going through the border. The usual amount of running around and hiding stuff takes effect and we stash the cash again.
The Mongolian guards are through fairly quickly and then we sit in no mans land, waiting to get though to the other side. Our german neighbours tell us the've used the half a puppy left on the rails as a cautionary tale to their 7 year old, who is prone to wandering off. We're all quite excited (well those of us with an inner rail geek) as they're going to be taking the wheels off on the Mongolian side and putting the smaller ones on for the Chinese side...You'd think it would be more sensible to have the same size...But I think this is one of those Russian/Chinese things that Mongolia got stuck with.
Customs on the Chinese side takes ages, everything is inspected, though they are not bothering so much with the foreigners, so we amuse ourselves by looking for guards with machine guns hiding in the bushes and the darkness (we spot 3) and trying to work out what they are signaling each out about (given what happens when they flash the lights I think the answer is 'time for a ciggie break')
Eventually we get through and after a bit of shunting we end up in the railway shed. It's all quite efficient and fast and similar to going to Jiffy Lube for a tire change. They put you on the lifters, unclip your underneath bits, raise you up, slide out all the wheels and slide in the new one. The funny part is the provinistia's putting on their grubby clothes and having to work with the rail guards to do the job. The more dainty (or lazy ones) obviously don't want to get their nails broken(despite the white gloves) so they flirt with the workshop guys to get more done. Lots more shunting later and the train is hooked back up with the Chinese dining car and we trundle through to the station...it's 1:00am and 3.5 hours later! There's lots of leg crossing going on at this stage and no-one is drinking anything.
We have about 15 minutes in the station then the sellers pack up and leave...but we don't move. Seems like something has broken down as guards and the fat conductor keep walking through the train. Another 1/2 hour and the provinesta takes pity on us and opens the toilet, at this point I don't care that I can see the station underneath. M has crashed out by now and I give up at 2:00 and go to bed...nice to be stationary in some ways, I wonder where we'll wake up in China.
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