Give us a moment mate...here's a wee diary of the big move to US and how it's all going, enhanced by the addition of baby E...
February 25, 2005
that sinking feeling
those of you that have been following the progress of us 'tidying' up the house for maximum resale will know that this weekend was the (hopefully) last big push. BIL and SIL (Brother in law and sister in law) willingly volunteered to help us do this, probabley cos they knew we would kill ourselves or each other if we attempted it alone. M conveniently arranged to be a godfather to Angie two years ago in preparation for missing out the start of the demolition (one of the things I love about him is he is so well organized like that!) and had to go to her birthday. I didn't want to pass on my germs so couldn't go.
BIL, SIL and MWBTD (Morgan - worlds best trained dog) made the journey and the massacre commenced. We started out so optimistically, and pretty much everything that could go wrong did go wrong (you had to laugh or you cried). Should have realized when I was heading to Home Depot to pick up a second piece of bench top 1 hour into the project, and really should have known when I came back to find that the garbage disposal didn't come out of the sink. so on the up side i got the opportunity to kick the old one several times under the guise of trying to get it out of the sink...that'll teach it not to eat the garbage.
So after the realization that the walls were not straight (corner piece has to be angle cut), the old bench tops were glued down with some sort of industrial strength gunk that had hardened to concrete over time and there was barely enough room under the bench to fix the new sink...several medicinal beers, a lot of US/Kiwi ingenuity and way more glue than we probabley needed, the Home Depots finest(read only ones you can buy and take home) counter tops, double sink and garbage disposal are in and working...and looking pretty smashing if I may say so myself. They're a nice dark green fleck, which looks good with the oak cabinets. Pictures will be up on the web eventually.
and then we started on the master bath...should be easy after the kitchen right....nope...not a hope.
The old one came out with any bits of wall attached and we measured and cut the new one...popped it on the cabinets to realize that the cabinet was too small underneath and therefore the bench hangover in a most disconcerting way...several mini tantrums and name calling episodes later (and it was not me that measured it in the first place) we were nailing chunks of wood together to push the cabinet out from the wall. Everything else seemed to go smoothly after that...though I still have several tidy up jobs left to do, including putting a new side to the cabinet on.
Things we have learned from this weekend:
Measure 72 times...cut once or twice...if you're lucky
When you''re connecting the plumbing and testing if it works...don't point the tap to the sink with the big hole where you plan to put the new garbage disposal
Never clean under the sink hole you've just cut, sawdust absorbs water quite well
If in doubt...buy more glue
Ignore any manufacturer instructions when installing a sink and just go with what works...put the sink in then glue the bench-top down.
Hope that potential buyers never read this blog
'She'll be right mate' helps in most situations
So a really big thanks to SIL, BIL and MWBTD for all your help...and we promise that the next time we invite you down it will just be for dinner!
February 18, 2005
Doors, floors and foreign shores.
At this point I gave up and went to watch the start of survivor...cracking start too. Still, not quite the same if I can't ring mands and talk to her about it.
and as for the doors...oh well, if B&S (handypersons extrodinaire) can't figure out why when they come down this weekend then I'm calling Jack, Carrons dad who is like god of fixing things, and should probley have a website called www.bestnzdadatfixingthings.com
I'm going to do the other 3 tonight (M does not seem to be particularly inspired to help at the moment - though to give him his due, we're both addicted to CSI, and should be able to commit the perfect crime should we ever want to) so hopefully if they shut ok, then it must just be something about that door.
and the other thing we did yesterday was start the great house hunt. Never mind being green with envy about getting an email from D&R about moving into their new built house, we're just starting to look. What an eye opener. Several years of watching 'House doctor' in the UK lead me to believe that everyone would realize that you should at least vacuum your carpet if you are going to show your house...not to mention getting smelly pets out. But not these two. I know you need to look outside of the decor etc and look at the bones of the house, but still, cat pee in the basement and a master bedroom furnished like a dusty wild west saloon (complete with swinging doors on the wardrobe) can be a little distracting.
Neither house is what we want, though I'm not sure we exactly know what that is either, but we can agree that next to big road and needing lots more construction than pushing a few walls out are probably not the way to go.
Still it's given us(well me at least - the boss just wants it all to be over like a bad dream) a bit more inspiration to get cracking so we can put ours on the market...though I'm wondering what people will say about it (probably that we are boringly tidy and have some strange pictures)
and the foreign shores bit...my blister(sister) is officially booked (it was our chrissy present to her thanks to the vast amount of miles we accumulated last year) and will be in the US on the 24th of July...she drives me nuts and it's probably better if we never live together again in our lives, but I love her to bits and miss her...besides, think of the savings on telephone bills.
toodlepip til next time
February 17, 2005
Cute shoes or snow shoes
I start my asking M how cold it is outside as the temperature thingy is on his side of the bed. This usually determine how woolly the trousers have to be and how thick the sweater is on top...then I look outside. If it's raining (not very often) or the snow is melting (even less) then nothing made of fabric or suede will touch my feeties that day. If the snow is deep or the path is icy, then anything which will cause me to fall on my butt in an embarrassing manner (is there any other sort?) is also out.
At the moment this leaves me with a selection of about 5 pairs of boots/shoes, one red, one brown and the others are of course black (Can you tell I've have been living in the UK for the last 5 years?). So once again I reach for the 'snow shoes' and all my cute little shoes in their little cardboard coffins stare reproachfully back.
If the weather doesn't clear up by tomorrow, I'm off snow shoe shopping on Friday night!
February 15, 2005
Happy valentines day
I think I subscribe to the Tinholt theory that P&K came up with...if you buy flowers for your sweetie at least once a month to tell them how special they are, then you can eschrew the ridiculous overpriced stuff on v-day, knowing they already know you love them. Of course we always give him a hard time for being tight due to his Dutch ancestry....but that's another story.
Anyways...went to Florida to hang with the MIL and FIL last weekend. The locals all complained cos it got down to a cool 14 degree's on Saturday...but still felt pretty warm to me, and by the time it was 25 on Sunday we were lying by the pool in our togs blinding the locals with body parts that had not seen daylight since Malaysia
Florida is a very good place for license spotting, since it is packed full of 'snowbirds' (retired people who've done their time in cold states). We saw plates from Ontario, New York and just about every cold place in between those states and Florida...we may have easily been the youngest people in town as well.
MIL and FIL have a nice little condo overlooking a lake and it was good to spend time with them. Went to a craft fair and bought some guava jelly (closest I'm going to get to feijoa's for a while) and swamp cabbage salsa...remember when you were growing up and you learnt that you could cook and eat the heart of the cabbage tree...that's swamp cabbage in Florida. It did remind me a lot of the BOP, cold crisp mornings and warm days...not to mention large groves of oranges (sorta pre-kiwifruit BOP actually). MIL wanted to go to a grove to pick oranges and take a picture of us next to an orange tree(strange but true)...had flashbacks to living in kati and when the owner figured this out I got to spend the next 15 minutes regurgitating all I knew about kiwifruit production as he wants to have a go growing them. Who would have thought all those seasons of picking/packing/pruning/pollinating would come handy some day on the other side of the world. By the time we got to T-bar vs Pergola everyone's else eyes were glazing over so we headed of with some very tasty oranges and the knowledge that I might have planted the seeds of the next kiwifruit market....Oops.
Didn't do much else cept eat lots of fresh fish and lolling around reading and catching up...then managed to get an earlier plane home to a very sodden Chicago.
Off to sit through 2 hours of someone's presentation of a test plan...might need some coffee.
February 08, 2005
Back to blog
It's fat Tuesday here today (Mardi Gras) before ash Wednesday and lent so I think we might be justified in having a slap up dinner tonight...okdokey, back to work and see you all later.
January 05, 2005
A happy Nu Ear
Well we had a quiet but fun new year in the D mansion in burbs of Milwaukee. D built a great new house a few years ago but in typical bloke fashion has not yet filled it with much...perhaps he's going for the Zen look, perhaps he feels no need for frilly cushions in his life(very likely)but more likely he's never home. Made a mental note to stop buying him fishing stuff and start buying him serving platters from now on, or perhaps frilly cushions featuring fish. He was a great host and we could have been snowed in for days and not starved or run out of martini ingredients.
Speaking of snow, it's been a very tropical 6-12 degrees over the weekend but has now turned into a winter storm with 3 inches of snow last night and lots of God's dandruff swirling around there now. I went to get the groceries at lunch time and another inch was on the car....loving those 4wd braking system thingy that works today. Hoping I never have to see how the side airbags work! Supposed to get another 3-8 inches today and we might well do. It's not too cold, just slushy when it melts in your car and windy getting to the car.
Unfortunately they are pretty used to it here and don't close the office unless its really severe...what must that be? half a metre perhaps. At least we are having the weather we are expecting. Albs emailed me today and I quote 'The weather throughout NZ has been shabby to say the least this Summer (coldest December for 60 yrs and windiest on record since 1896) so you haven't been missing much.' Still wet ad warm is better than cold. Snow is still a novelty though that may have worn off by Feb. I think I might be too old to lie down and make a snow angel perhaps.
Spoke to MIL today and they had a UFO invasion last night...well that's the talk of the town, though they suspect it might be a meteor shower. They heard a whopping great thump and thought someone had smacked into the tree in the front of the house. Aunt J apparently had such a bright light shining in her mirror that she pulled over to see a big light go overhead...such weirdness. I like the alien theory myself..if you are going to land anywhere, a town like Merrill might be a good idea. You can live in all the pine tree's and people are allowed to be whatever they want...might have to like cheese a lot though.
Enough rambling...time to get back to work.
Toodle-pip
December 22, 2004
My car has a moon roof - I think it's called a moonroof cos there is no sun!
It's the last day at work(love those short weeks) and pretty much deserted. The car is holding up well though already has a scratch...Which we think happened when M took it to the supermarket to get a plunger for the garbage disposal...The scratch looks suspiciously trolley height - I shall have to remember who scratched MY car....Hopefully we'll pick up his today and I can scratch it in return :>)
The garbage disposal suffers from that well known kids disease 'I don't wanna eat my veges' and requires everything to be chopped up into little pieces, well I know this now after the unfortunate stirfry remains incident.
Well, better get cracking at work...think the document has finally loaded up for me. Have a wonderful warm Christmas where ever you are.
December 20, 2004
Walking in a winter freezerland
We had the Weaver whanau down helping this weekend and they did a smashing job...Literally when B moved the wardrobe door into the light shade! We had a long list of tasks and they had accomplished 1/2 of them by Friday night. Finally got all the wedding presents into the house (they've been stored up in Merrill) and boxes moved to storage and the tree decorated (thanks J) and new doorhandles, wardrobe doors and they even put a new fan up in the lounge while we went out for work drinks at the bosses. Not sure we'll need the fan for a while, but it looks great. We've now booked them for 'electrical weekend' and 'plumbing weekend' in which the lighting gets changed and we put in new bathroom units. Think we might be doing some extended dog sitting in return.
Get to pick up my car tonight, looking forward to 2 bits of it the most. Heated seats and sat nav. In NZ, heated seats are what you get when you forget to put a towel on the vinyl seats of your old ford falcon after a day at the beach (ouch - just remembered how it hurt when you leap off the hot seat, and your skin stayed behind). Our rental at the moment take about 10 mins to warm up, by which time we're usually just getting to work, or I've frozen in the hunched shape of the seat. I shall probabley spend the first five minutes in the new car making embarrassingly orgasmic noises of pleasure as the seat heats around my back and bottom.
Satellite navigation will also be great as I'm still getting lost. This is someone who's driven in most European countries, sometimes in the dark and up (and almost off) steep hillsides looking for hotels, with completely unintelligible signs...Ross and I never did work out what 'farten' in Norway meant, but we still laughed everytime we saw it on a sign. Here it's flat and the roads are usually cross over in neat squares with some running north/south etc...and I still get lost getting from the house to the supermarket...all of 5 minutes away.
I worked out why the other day. I navigate by landmarks...'go down to the Shell station, turn right and then the supermarket is on the left after Target' etc. This worked fine in the UK with a pub on every corner and a roundabout on every other. You missed where you were going, just turn around at the next round about and come back. Everything looks the same here and there is an indentical Walgreens (pharmacy chain) on every corner (apparently this is actually their mission statement and they are pretty close to achieving it)...all the corners look the same, all the housing looks similar and I'm still concentrating on driving on the right side of the road. Bring on the sat nav now please...I'm hoping I can push a button and it will just get me there with no pain or detours...Funny how I hate M giving me directions inthe car but I'm happy for an anonymous voice to do the same at an extra $1,500...I wonder if you can chose the voice...I think I'd like Shawn Connery to be telling me' turn right at the next lights onto Cobbler lane'....now that would be good.
December 10, 2004
Interesting things I have noticed since moving to the US
- If it snows and then freezes and then you whack the snow off your car (to stop it falling into the boot on the groceries - tip 1) it also takes the dirt of and cleans the car...though this is negated by the runny brown slush that splashes when you drive through puddles
- we learnt fractions at school for a reason...you have to use them if you're stuck with imperial measurements, so you don't sound stupid in front of the carpet salesmen...duh-oh 12 inches and 14 sixteenth would be 12 and 7/8ths...I really miss metric!
- In the middle of the fruit section you can buy caramel dip for your apples...gotta be good for you cos it's in the fruit section right?
- you can buy postage stamps on the internet, and print out your shipping labels
- a 'red hot' is a hot dog as in 'Michaels Red Hots' is a hot dog shop, not a stripper joint named after my husband
- Drive through banking and pharmacies and drive up post boxes are a really really great idea when it starts to snow
- The bigger the car, the less need to use your indicators ( I think this might actually be an international fact)
- Most houses don't have overhead lighting, but do have overhead fans...must be good business for the lamp sellers
- Fanny Mae is a brand of chocolates...some with creamy centres ;>)
- All light bulbs are screw in (very sensible after having to buy both bayonet and screw in UK)
- The US is at least 2 generations behind in mobile technology and it's cool to wear your flip phone on your belt (In Russia its cool to wear it hanging down your front)
- Most people drink tea iced (if they drink tea at all) and don't put milk in it if it's hot
- Red sweets are usually cinnamon (bleeeeeeech -icky yucky-poo) and not raspberry or peppermint.
- Our office has a tiny inhouse StarBucks, Ramadan prayer room, and each meal on the lunch menu has calories and carbs listed (doesn't stop me eating chips...I think I might be pro-carbs)
- Everyone is real friendly and 1/20 will see through my 'English' accent and ask me if I'm from Australia!
December 09, 2004
On the train again...ah jest can't wait to get on that train again...
It's a cold and frosty morning and after we've said goodbye to the boys (Goomba and Ita) we get onto the nice warm train. The carriage is much cleaner than the last one, but the decor is older than the Russian train and very floral. We tie the curtains back and use our patented cheese cooler (use the curtain tabs to hold the bag of cheese to the colder train wall!) spread our belongings around and we're off. Some of the faces in the first class carriage are starting to look very familiar. Mark and Julie finally board (we thought they were ahead of us and it turns out they slept through 2 wakeup calls and 1 alarm clock and only just made the train). They find out they are sharing a four berth carriage with a family of 3! General mayhem ensues but but no other option, they wedge themselves in for the ride.
Our first sight out of the station and 'ger-burbs is a man pooing in a field next to the rails...niiiice! I'm more amazed by the fact he's doing this over 2 inches of snow...not that it's in front of a 15 carriage train. It's the start of a day of peculiar sights.
We're retracing some of our steps through the national park, and this gives a perspective of just how vast the land is, and how small and lonely the settlements look at we trundle through. Even though we don't stop at most of them, each one has a railway guard waving a flag to let us through. People either go about their everyday business, hauling water, sweeping or tinkering with engines of some variety, usually the kids will wave back.
There are some good curves so you can really see the train and the first stop is a dusty station with pink and blue buildings and a silver painted statue of the cosmonaut.
The day becomes a constant drift of looking at the view, talking to our new train friends, reading and trying to spot wild camels...which we do, and they are wearing their special hairy winter coats.
We plan the toilet breaks carefully as at the end of the day we'll be going through the border. The usual amount of running around and hiding stuff takes effect and we stash the cash again.
The Mongolian guards are through fairly quickly and then we sit in no mans land, waiting to get though to the other side. Our german neighbours tell us the've used the half a puppy left on the rails as a cautionary tale to their 7 year old, who is prone to wandering off. We're all quite excited (well those of us with an inner rail geek) as they're going to be taking the wheels off on the Mongolian side and putting the smaller ones on for the Chinese side...You'd think it would be more sensible to have the same size...But I think this is one of those Russian/Chinese things that Mongolia got stuck with.
Customs on the Chinese side takes ages, everything is inspected, though they are not bothering so much with the foreigners, so we amuse ourselves by looking for guards with machine guns hiding in the bushes and the darkness (we spot 3) and trying to work out what they are signaling each out about (given what happens when they flash the lights I think the answer is 'time for a ciggie break')
Eventually we get through and after a bit of shunting we end up in the railway shed. It's all quite efficient and fast and similar to going to Jiffy Lube for a tire change. They put you on the lifters, unclip your underneath bits, raise you up, slide out all the wheels and slide in the new one. The funny part is the provinistia's putting on their grubby clothes and having to work with the rail guards to do the job. The more dainty (or lazy ones) obviously don't want to get their nails broken(despite the white gloves) so they flirt with the workshop guys to get more done. Lots more shunting later and the train is hooked back up with the Chinese dining car and we trundle through to the station...it's 1:00am and 3.5 hours later! There's lots of leg crossing going on at this stage and no-one is drinking anything.
We have about 15 minutes in the station then the sellers pack up and leave...but we don't move. Seems like something has broken down as guards and the fat conductor keep walking through the train. Another 1/2 hour and the provinesta takes pity on us and opens the toilet, at this point I don't care that I can see the station underneath. M has crashed out by now and I give up at 2:00 and go to bed...nice to be stationary in some ways, I wonder where we'll wake up in China.
December 08, 2004
made it to the US
November 24, 2004
Two Buddhist monks go round the outside, round the outside...
Goomba, Ita, M and I set off after a smoky night in the Ger, and a bread and omelet breakfast. We've never figured out where the showers are, so decide the smoky smell of sleeping in the coal powered ger is probably a good thing. We take a slight detour to drive around the dead carcass of the horse Goomba and the other guide dragged over in the night to see if there are any wolf tracks but luckily there are only foxes. We're not sure what the the vegetarians in the other car (Mark and Julie will make of this) We go a different way out today, and it seems appropiate that our last sight of national park is the lone horseman trotting his shaggy beast across the plain, as his forbearers must have done for the last few centuries.
Today is the city tour, and once back in the hustle and honking of UB we stop first at the buddist temple, a cheerful multicoloured concoction of buildings in the snow on the hill. The temple was restored once communism was quietly done away with, and is now teaching and worshiping again. Scantily clad (for the cold) saffron monks are walking about, along with elderly tribesman from out of town. Everyone walks around and rotate the drums and kisses the building on the corners etc. We make do with admiring the buildings (they are pretty cool really) and trying to avoid the flock of pigeons that are annoyed we haven't brought them food...I hate the damn things...rats with wings.
The shrine at the back has the tallest Buddha in Asia, coated with gold and it's pretty awe inspiring...then it's back out into the cold and back to the car.
In the afternoon we visit the natural and the national museum...not easily confused as one holds a very old and moulting collection of stuffed animals and the other interesting tribal hats, modern history and lots of information about Chiggis Khan(you DON"T say Ghengis in Mongolia...or at least you only say it once before you are politely corrected), and his considerable efforts to rule China...all of which goes a long way towards explaining why the Mongols plumped for Russia over China when push came to shove.
We've run out of stuff to talk to Ita about and run out of historic places to see, so Ita drops us off at a cashmere shop (yes folks...some of you will be luck enough to get cashmere from Mongolia this Christmas) and trudge home, nostrils freezing in the cold to stock up on train food and do once more wash before our last day or so on the train.
November 14, 2004
I wonder what wolf really tastes like?
It snows in the night and now UB looks clean and lovely...with the outline of factories belching smoke on the horizon somehow rendered more attractive. There are no such things as snow sweepers so various workers are out in the mornings sweeping and chipping the snow of the side of the kerbs to provide markers for the cars to see which lines to stay inside of, used as a loose guideline of course!
Ita and Gomba (the driver) pick us up in a Mitzi 4WD and take us off the the national park. We soon leave the traffic (and occasional car head first in a ditch) and head out through the 'ger burbs' The govt is trying to encourage people into town so you can move your ger in and put a fence around it, and there are lots of area's of this. Ger's are round almost flat roofed tents, on wooden frames, with thick felt and canvas covering them. Basically the height of people standing up, with a wood burning stove in the middle. There are usually animals tied up somewhere near,and as we passed in the morning, the kids were up on top sweeping the snow off, before it melted. The land is flat flat flat, with little vegetation, until we head into the hills and then it still doesn't really get that high. The paved road takes us past a river in the process of freezing, yaks, goats, cows and sturdy little horses. All around are 'Ger Camp's (summer camps) as every one leaves the town to live in the tents or small houses over summer. We embarrass ourselves by asking if the set of ornate temples is a Buddhist monastery to find out it's an elaborate themed Summer Camp. As it's winter very few are open and those that do cater for mad tourists, group bonding sessions or hunters. Mongolians love to hunt and one of their few entries into the Olympics was a highly places shooting team.
The ute leaves the road and heads out along the plain, winding over and round tracks, and there is no road in sight. I think the driver has done this many times before and just points the car towards the hills and drives around anything (rocks/people/houses) he can't be bothered driving over...It's very entertaining and quite bouncy, as by now we are heading up through the hills.
We stop at a prayer rock, made up of a mound of stones with any number of flags attached and they both walk around 3 times as a matter of course. I think the Mongolians have interrogated religion in a very practical way, perhaps to do with having been the second country to declare as Communist( we find out later that going with the Russians was more appealing than going with the Chinese). Gomba has been telling us about all the animals that are in the woods (anything that's not for hunting is either livestock or a plant!) and is interested to know if M is a hunter. M had to confess that he doesn't hunt, but his dad does, and quickly points out this includes ferocious Wisconsin deer...as duck seem a little tame next to hunting for fox, wolf and a wild mountain sheep/goat thing that costs US$10,000 to hunt. Gomba shows us his guns and loads up, apparently he got a wolf 3 days ago and is keen for another. Ita rides shotgun (literally) and we take off again to the camp, I'm concentrating on looking at the wonderful scenery (there's lots of eagles soaring in the sky) and trying not to think of loaded firearms in a bouncy car. All of a sudden Goomba sees a wolf and sure enough, there on the hill side is a lone wolf going from rock to rock. We screech to a halt and he gets out and starts blasting away. He's obviously a good shot as he only misses by about 6-8 m from 500m away in the valley. I'm secretly glad as i quite like wolves and went walking with them in the sanctuary in Reading...M's just glad we don't have a dead wolf draped on the luggage for the rest of the trip. We keep moving, keeping our eyes peeled but only see vultures and eagles (obviously not tasty enough), and make it through the isolated passes to the camp.
We go and say hello to the family and only the kids are home, get served bowls of yoghurt, something that resembles frozen clotted cream and cold donuts...Interesting food..not good for the no dairy or wheat regime but when in Rome...
the family Ger is like being on a long camping holiday, every thing seems to have it's place and we sit at on small stools at a little table, kind of like being at the kids table for Christmas dinner. They have a small shrine that includes a picture of the Dalai Lama. We eat our fill of the yoghurt etc but haven't mastered the art of licking the bowl clean as the driver does...our guide informs us that he hasn't either.
We get to our own ger, with cheery yellow and red curtains around the insides, and a lovely warm wood burning fire. This is attended to by a couple of girls who pop in at unexpected moments to put more wood on, cuts down on the snogging, and we work out a plan that involves getting up every two hours throughout the night to keep the wood on, only to discover they put great big lumps of coal in for the night...glad about that from the 'keeping warm' point of view, but will wake up smelling like a hangi, with a new rattle to the hacking cough I've developed especially to keep M awake.
We get to rest for a little then go for lunch. Mongolians eat 3 courses at lunch and two at dinner and they like to eat dinner early as they think that eating late is bad(v. true to) We get salad (potato with unidentified verges - but good), delicious mushroom soup that even M (A known mushroom hater) likes and delicious stew, very like a stronganoff, all under the watchful eyes of the most enormous stuffed and glaring mountain goat, mounted high on the wall of the dining room above us. This turns out to the be wild prized sheep that all hunters want to bag. It has curly horn and is easily the scariest looking beast I've seen.
We get to go trekking on small sturdy hairy horses in saddles like rocking chairs. Quite comforting to the non rider (me!) and I plan what to tell Carron in her postcard...me actually riding a horse. Still feels like a long way from the ground as the poor thing plods over the snowy hill, huffing and puffing as it drags my yoghurt filled carcass. I concentrate on admiring the view whilst hunching into the saddle as it's absolutely freezing, especially in the wind, easily the coldest we've been so far. I look at the scenery ( wonderful views over the valley), I tell myself how glad I am being in Mongolia, I pretend that I'm a trader going into the village BC (before car) and I console myself that M looks at least as cold and he's from Wisconsin. On the way home I'm so numb I can barely hold on, and I'm trying not to think about how many days until we're in Malaysia and focus on the stove in the Ger...feel the warmth. The horse picks up it's speed as it knows it's going home...it's barely moving in a fast walk, I fall on the saddle in a not very graceful dismount and head of the Ger and HEAT.
Managing Mongolia
Day X - Ulaan Baatar Recover from train in UB's poshest hotel, stroll the streets smiling at everyone cos they smile back, eat mutton dumplings, provide background noise for Mongolian National TV, and do the washing.
UB is a very small capital city and a very cold one, there is not much green around but the buildings are varied and many are brightly painted, the Mongolians love colour, especially on the children...to match their rosy cheeks (something to do with the cold I think). WE saw purple buildings, green buildings red buildings and lots of marble inbetween, not a great idea walking on marble steps when it gets icy.
We spread our stuff around the hotel room and sent the big stuff off the the laundry. Our room looks into town, and over the Mongolian Olympic offical building (apparently they're big at shooting...more about that later). We walked into town to the main square (Suhkbataar)over the bridge, about 15 minutes to get to the centre. The wind is freezing and the non goretex bits soon get a bit cold so we speed up. Everyone is a lot more smiley than Russia, and there is a real entreprenurial spirit to doing things, though a lot of things seems to be held together with string and good luck. People stand on street corners with wireless push button phones so others can dial home (for a fee)...we kept looking for the wire to see if they had just taken the phone out of the house. Traffic is of the 'more you hoot, the better you drive' variety and you take your life in your hands when you step out on the road. We fall back on our usual trick of 'drafting' the locals...hoping that the red jackets are seen as a warning, not a target.
Lots of older people still wear native dress, and in winter this consists of heavy padded coat with silk outer and a yellow/gold/orange sash tied low on the waist, and heavy leather boots with the toes pointing up. All quite sensible and warm. Everyone else favours the black leather or woolen coat look, and big hairy hats with dangling animals bits (tails or testicles usually) are almost as popular here as in Russia. Pointy highheeled boots again feature for the fasionable lady.
We look around the square and set off the find the english book store as I've almost run out. We end up in the old state store, now private, and stock up on a couple of christmas gifts (don't worry Mands, wouldn't dream of buying you a Christmas pressie from Mongolia), postcards and a old (about 30 years) appliqued hanging from inside a ger. M refuses to let me buy the one with authentic water stain(or maybe it's yoghurt) so I settle for the faded look. Those of you that visit, look out for it appearing in a Weaver room someday soon. We go down a floor and buy a lovely cashmere blanket at a price we keep pinching ourselves over and finally set off for lunch. Very unsuccessful at finding the reccomended resturant (if anyone can tell us where Be Pou is - we're still looking) we end up in something called 'Silk Road', surprisingly good and they start filming some business discussion at the table next to us. We end up having to slurp our coffee and remove ourselves and our crackly plastic bags very quietly, the waiter delighting in the comedy value of this...but hey - it's not often you can say you've almost been on Mongolian National TV.
We waddle home...freezing wind spuring us on...tears on the eyelashes freezing, and me trying to work out how to blow my nose without taking my gloves off!
Do some laundry and make use of the extensive radiator (just like being in England again) then catch up on BBC World, write some postcards. Tomorrow we're off the the ger!
November 10, 2004
Walking in the dark
Day 6 - Irktusk to Lake Baikal: get up at 5:00 to get off train, nice Alexander the driver takes us to Hotel Baikal at Lake Baikal, catch up on sleep in bed that's not moving(happy about that), walk to town, learn to walk home in dark coldness and eat pancakes.
It's -15 degrees when we get off the train and apparently unseasonably warm for this time of year...ouch - M says it's good practice for Chicago...I say I'm not sure I'm ready for Chicago...I want to go back to little old soggy England at this point. We take a long drive out to the lake through valleys of skinny feathery pines and snow, with little peeps of the lake along the way. The hotel is a scary concrete monolith from the soviet era perched on top of the cliff with wonderful views of the lake. I covet the 'retro' red and white plastic light fixture and red rotary phone.
Baikal is the oldest lake in the world(how can a lake be the oldest - answers from all the FESC's I know please) It's deep, it's freshwater and has lots of species that don't live anywhere else, including a freshwater seal, they call them Nerpa's. I'm still recovering from my cold and a poor nights sleep as the train was running late and seemed to be trying to make up time by cantering along the lines at a jolting pace. So much so that at one point we were both convinced our carriage had gone careering off on it's own.
The hotel is in it's out of season time and there are very few guests and the main restaurant is closed...so it's pancakes (and saveloys/hotdogs, eggs, a cheese like tofu and yoghurt for breakfast). We walk down to the town along the lake front, and the view is spectacular, it seems very big with lots of mountains surrounding it. The water hasn't frozen yet, though the guide tells us later that the water is so clear you can see beneath the ice. The houses along the water are either small cottages that the locals live in, that seem to be made up of any piece of wood around at the time, or log cabins with the corners chopped off. Despite the ramshackle appearance, I think they seem well cared for, something proven later when we get invited in. It's getting dark when we get to the fish market in the middle of Listvyanka (the main town on the lake where we are) but I get to taste smoked omul, which the the local delicacy, and a wonderful (hot) slightly salmony fish. I've only got tissues to wipe my hands so my gloves smell slightly fishy for a couple of days and dogs seem strangely attracted to me.
street lighting is a foreign concept so we make our way home in the dark up the icy hill to more pancakes for dinner.
- if you dip your hand in Lake Baikal waters you gain a year extra, 5 for a foot and 25 for your whole body...if you live through the cold that is!
Day 7 - Lake Baikal: see many dead fish, inside of a Siberian house and go on mammoth trek in wood. Eat more pancakes.
Liana meets us at 9 and takes us to the Baikal Natural museum which is actually quite interesting, and small so you're not overwhelmed. She whispers to us what each dead fish in a jar is as they don't like the private guards to speak too loudly. We learn about the deepness and the cleanness and get to see some cute sea lions in a very small tank. Apparently they've been rescued from an illegal hunter (he just wounded the mother, a good hunter would kill instantly!) and never lived outside. They're very fat cos its winter.
She walks down to Listvanka with us to meet the trekking guide and as her English is very good, we ask lots of annoying tourist type questions. She's just completed a 4 year child psychology degree but didn't like it so is now doing journalism for the next 3 years, whilst guiding is paying the way. Pizza is her favorite food and has become very popular in Siberia over the last 15 years. She has a fatalism I expected to see in Russian, ie 'we don't complain cos we don't expect any better' She doesn't remember much about being under communist rule (she's only 23) but her parents both work in a factory and I got the sense that it didn't affect them.
She takes us to the small orthodox church in Listvanka that has only recently been turned back into a church. It's interior is light and airy(quite unusual for a Russian church), with wonderful icons on every way. It's not much bigger than a meeting room(with high ceilings) but seems to rejoice in being allowed to be a church again.
We go to Rita's house and she makes us tea before we set out on the trek with Sacha. Very few houses (apart from the large ones being built as holiday homes) have indoor water and plumbing. They have microwaves and DVD player...but still use the outhouse/longdrop down the back of the garden. Water comes from the nearby well or sometimes the lake. I can imagine the arguments in our house if the water ran out...no you get it, no it's your turn, I can't be bothered..can we dial a drop?
We've asked the guide for a shorter walk (only 3 hours) as I'm still having problems with the cold and I'm not very fit. He agrees to take us in for an hour, hour for lunch, and then out again. We pick up his neighbor's dog (the adorable Mischa - bear in Russian) and walking sticks and set off. It soon appears that Sacha operates at Russian speed (about twice as fast - we get passed by old ladies up a hill later). He ends up waiting a lot, but is very patient about it. We start up hill and it's slightly warmer in the trees and the snows about 4 inches deep. I'm puffing and blowing like a steam train, with frequent nose wiping included, but it's beutiful in the trees. Sacha points out sable tracks and the hunter that is tracking it. We keep going over hill and dale, pausing on ridge lines to admire the view and stop me from going into cardiac arrest. After about 2 hours Sacha tells us he is going on ahead to light the fire for lunch and we can follow his tracks. He soon speeds of and we trudge uphill with cold wet boots. We jokingly come up with a plan if we get lost (IN THE SIBERIAN WOODS IN WINTER) which involves ring Intourist in the first instance and the UK police in the second...Luckily my girl guide skills M being the son of a hunter must have paid off as we soon spotted Mischa's dog pee in the snow and figured out we were still on the right track.
Sacha had a fire going (I think he regards his day job of teaching maths secondary to his outdoor skills) and made us soup of potato, onion and mackerel...very good when you're freezing your butt of in the Siberian forest. After lunch we heaved ourselves up to the top of the ridge and then began the long walk/slip/slide all the way home. Down hill was definitely better than uphill, though we could have done with a sled to go faster. Sacha kept going ahead then checking that we were still in sight and Mischa gave up entirely and went home, don't blame him, we definitely weren't fast. Eventually came out at the other side of Listvyanka and started the long walk home. Somehow the 3 hour walk turned into a 7 hour journey from the museum back to the hotel...and once again we were trudging home in the dark...and before you ask...not a taxi to be found.
More pancakes, a nicely frosted bottle of champagne and bit of repacking and we're ready for a 4am pick-up to get the train to Mongolia.
- UK's poor reputation for snow survival is mocked by Siberians...Liana asked 'Is is true that in Enlgand it stops when it snow'...to which we had to shamefacely reply 'YES'
- Thanks Pam and Nick for the possum fur knitted scarf you gave me for for christmas...its the best...and now Russian proof
ps - if anyone is reading this, can they pop a reply in, cos it gets awfully lonely on the road (even when travelling with your nearest and dearest) and now that's I've spent an hour writing this in Mongolia (I'll tell you about Mongolia when I get to China - promise) I'd like to know that at least one person was reading it.
November 08, 2004
"how do you say thank you in Russian again?"
We've made it as far as Ulan Bator and the trip has been pretty interesting so far. Although I could write for hours (when was the last time an Internet cafe charged $3.00 per hour) I'll give you a brief synopsis of the days and tell you about any interesting observations (well at least interestingly me) I've found along the the way.
Day 2 - Moscow to Nizhny Novgorod: Spend day schelping around Moscow avoiding the rain and furry hat sellers, then had last grand dinner (caviar...mmmnnnnnnn) and set off for train. Wait in one station and then tour guide takes us around the back to get on Train 2 - Moscow to Irkutsk. It's dark and cold and but we have a nice 'provanitska' (train attendant) and follow rule number one in our bible - the TranSib guide and tip her well.
The train is very new and clean, and by British standards...tall! There's not much room between the beds on either side (about a metre if that), but at least we're not sharing with anyone.
With a big clatter and sudden lurch we're off!
There is a Tyanet (vague attempt at spelling the Russian word for toilet) at each end...and after a few thwarted attempts, the kindly Russian lady at the cabin at the end points out that the red light goes on in the corridor when someone's in there or it's locked cos we're stopping at a station...duhhhhh -how many planes have you really been on Hazel!
The toilet is about as cold and smelly as you would imagine a railway toilet that does not have a holding tank to be...but at least the paper does not run out until day 4.
- The benefits of sitting on a toilet that is not moving are not to be disregarded lightly
Day 3 - Vyatka to Yekaterinburg: gaze at scenery, start eating contents of coolie bag, Hazel has a cold and the train is kept really hot, with no windows to open, M learns to point for food.
It's clear and bright and there is lots of snow around. People look cold when we pass them, and most favor the black coat and high furry hat look, quite sensible too.
We master the use of the water boiler down the end and get stuck into the soup. M makes several successful forays out onto the station and brings back salami (venison and almost as good as Paul's home made variety), diet coke, cough lozenges, cheese and a yummy bread. People sell very interesting stuff at the smaller stations, wizened little grandmothers with what looks like beetroot or cabbage in sourcream in little tubs, fish on a stick, newspapers and Russian romance novels. Each area we pass through seems to have a different specialty...we never did find the really great gingerbread we bought one one station...though we manfully sampled several other types of cake along the way.
- the window is the coldest place in the train and ties for the curtain make an excellent cheese holder
- fur is worn guilt free in Russia, and women have the amazing ability to walk on slippery ice with the skinniest stiletto boots
Day 4 - Tyumen to Bogotol: Hazel coughs a lot, M almost gets left behind, more soup gets eaten and we see some interesting factories.
Although I'm getting very used to lying around, eating, reading and gazing out the window inbetween coughing and blowing my nose, I make the effort to go out onto one of the stations to purchase some provisions, including orange to drink with our vodka (not quite up to the neat stuff yet). I manage to bring back two lots of yoghurt instead(well it did have fruit on the front and come in a carton), but rather than make a new and possibly quite interesting cocktail, we eat it as desert..though meal separation has become somewhat neglected in favor of grazing anytime we're bored. M discovers a new breakfast alternative and eats large plain cookies covered with peanut butter, whilst I plump for the ever popular marmite and cheese.
The countryside has hills and water and trees and we're still laughing at the fact that it looks like Wisconsin woods, given that we've spent all this money and time to get here...I think this could be more of a novelty to me than M. The silver birch and pine seem especially gloomy in the twilight, but we haven't gone through as much forest as flat plains and small hills, with lots of clumps of Dacha everywhere. Sergei (the Moscow guide) explained that this is what every Russian wants, a small place (and some of them are very small - no bigger than garden sheds) with a patch of land for gardening around. They are not quite allotments as the garden only forms part of the land, more like the back garden to a house...with the front being an apartment somewhere else in another town or city. Not very many are in use, as you can't do much digging this time of year, but they must be nice little communities, with the dacha being passed down between family member. They seem quite lonely, here next to the tracks waiting for spring.
- climbing UNDER a stationary train to get to the platform to sell stuff is quite safe as long as you are over 60 and short, it's just a little scary to watch
- never say the words chicken and soup too far apart in a sentence or you'll end up with the soup and the roast chicken...both very tasty, but not conducive to fitting back through the skinny doors between the carriages on the walk back to the cabin.
Day 5 - aching 1 to Irkutsk: cold reduced to coughing and less frequent nose blowing, Siberia gets progressively cold and more beautiful, M beats Hazel at scrabble again and we prepare to leave the train.
The towns have been less frequent and the tiny villages more so, with the odd huge messy city (Omsk etc), full of looming factories (well the train was never going to go thorough the nice part of town was it!) and peeling apartment blocks. There are less old ladies and a few more Mongolian and Chinese (I can just about tell the difference) selling things on the platform. Most stuff is sold out of little stores and Coke fridges (I bet Coke doesn't know their brand covers smoked fish and cigarettes - yes folks, I think you keep the cigarettes warm in fridges in Siberia). We're glad to be getting off the train and dying to stretch our legs.
- remember when you learnt to use the abacus as school? some of the storekeepers still use an abacus to work out the total, then type it into a calculator for us to understand. There's something ironic about someone using an abacus to calcuate something for someone with a wireless PDA in his pocket....more so when you consider the blackberry doesn't get a signal to transmit!
October 31, 2004
1st day in Russia
Did the intourist tour with sergei and now know the history of every “yellowish building to the left” as every building seems to have a historic past...though they could be making it up and we'd never know.Got the giude to tell us a good place for dinner and thawed out over mulled wine. M had 'tabbacco chicken' which looked like road kill flattened out on his plate, but tasted like peking duck. He could hardly cut into it but had backup dumplings to fill him up. Did the usual trick of getting posh hotel to get taxi back to ours as everyone has been warning us not to use the private cabs and we really do look like tourists. Maybe we should buy and light some ciggies to walk around with, to blend in.
Now hanging in the lobby bar having a 'gasser' local beer...any lighter and it could be called 'bud' (sorry americans) watching a couple of hookers waiting for the lift (it is a safe hotel really) as my mum would say, they'll catch they're death of cold dressed like that. The other interesting sight today is watching a well dressed woman at the airport put out her cigarette by spitting onto a piece of paper, stubbing it out in the spittle before folding it all up and carefully putting the whole lot in her pocket!
October 29, 2004
last day
last day at work
feels like another day with huge amount to do..feeling very guilty about all the things I haven't done, trying not to get upset about it
Reuters team and Katie gave me a nice bottle of champagne to say thank you, very thoughtful...couple of other people popped by to wish me well
Think M got a bit of a leaving do..nice they think so much of him
no time left, have to get back to work
later gator
October 28, 2004
Almost there...We've made it to Thursday
Onto the cleaning, and finger crossing to get the bond back.
Not much time today to post as I got to work late due to the large amount of things that had to be done this morning...you know you''ve got too much in your suitcase when you have to sit on it to close it.
The nice Kiwi bloke I spoke to on the phone today (just remembered to cancel the car insurance!) asked for my favorite travel tips, so I thought I would post them today for you all:
- http://www.priceline.com/ is the site to bid for hotel room, try being as cheeky as you can (we stayed in a 4 star in Zurich for £40 for 2 per night)
- http://www.smoothhound.co.uk is the best site I've found for B&B's in the UK and sometimes overseas...huge variety and price
- http://www.highways.gov.uk/trafficinfo/ if you're planning on traveling anywhere in the UK and don't know what the traffic is like...useful for bank holidays and trying to get to the airport or ferry on time!. Check if your mobile phone provider offers a road news service or tune into 1152am (traffic updates every 10 minutes in the morning that will help you on that hell trip around the M25)...so NOT going to miss the words 'experiencing severe delays on the Heathrow stretch...'
- http://www.regentpalacehotel.co.uk/ for a cheapo hotel (for London) if you want to have the night out and don't want to train home (or have lots of whanau wanting to visit) - it's not flash (I think they hide their two stars under a pile of laundry) but it's handy
- Go to Germany/France/Switzerland etc in winter as they have cool Christmas markets, and the Gluwien helps keep the cold away
- If you're flying sleazy jet or lyin air (easy or ryan), booking cars through the site usually works out the best price but plan for one person picking up the bags and the other nipping through to get to the front of the queue, particularly in teeny-tiny airports to some obscure place, where the whole flight needs a hire car. ALWAYS ask where the nearest fill up petrol station is on the map, AND if they are open on Sunday (can you tell we've been caught out and had to pay exorbitant petrol fees!)
- Look for a European hotel through easyjet(they're not bad) then look for the hotel itself online and see if you can book direct, it's sometimes cheaper, so is ringing them (but get a fax confirmation)
- Any food product with a reindeer picture in Scandanavia is not showing their national symbol (like a kiwi or bulldog)...you really are eating Rudolf made into salami...but it's quite tasty!
October 26, 2004
4 days to go
Need a mental break from looking at the spreadsheet I'm working on so went to look at the hotel we're staying in Moscow for 2 days...holy cow, I think the words 'it looks like a wedding cake' spring to mind.
Tommorow I'm sending this link out to all with our new address...hope no one gives me too much of a hard time!